Tirupur: Around 5 lakh Powerloom labourers stand to lose their bread and butter, if the prolonged wage issues go unaddressed.
Tirupur: Around 5 lakh Powerloom labourers stand to lose their bread and butter, if the prolonged wage issues go unaddressed.
From early 1990s till 2014, all was merry. Sadly, it now looks like the farmer turned loom workers once again have to switch over to another sector, as around 5 lakh people empoyed directly and indirectly in the powerloom sector are on the verge of losing their job.
The emergence of Powerloom
In early 90s, the ground water levels in Coimbatore and Tirupur districts depleted below 1500 feet which left the farmers foresee agriculture as a totally non-viable profession.
Probably, for the first time in their lives, the farmland owners and labourers were forced to look out for alternate ways of earning for their livelihood. While, textile industry was blooming in the early 90's, Tirupur was transforming into a global hub for apparels, while Kovai was already an established city for textile manufacturing.
Soon, the mighty textile manufacturing units turned the attention of the distressed farmers who sensed it to be a reliable source. Progressively, the hands which were once sowing and reaping in the slushy fields stepped into the gigantic powerloom sector.
By early 1990s, a sizeable number of micro and small power loom units employing around 6 to 10 people mushroomed in Somanur, Palladam, Avinashi and surrounding areas.
Not even for a day, did the farmers turned powerloom owners and labourers regret. They enjoyed every bit of the stable, progressing and timely, monetary benefits of the powerloom industry.
The 'grey' cloth
Not every powerloom unit produced the same. While Somanur specialized in weaving of loose quality of grey cloth; Avinashi picked up weaving of the finest quality of grey cloth.
From petticoats to blouse materials, and bed spreads to curtains, the grey cloths are the base in the apparel making.
Somanur's loose grey cloth was used to make blouse material after dyeing and bleaching; while the latter's grey cloth was used for making of high quality garments.
Traders from North India buy such grey cloths from master weavers and take them to Ahmedabad or Surat, where bleaching and dyeing process is carried out and the finished cloth is manufactured.
The finished cloth is brought back to South India, particularly to Karnataka which seems to be a major market player.
In the entirety of the process, the textile mills give their job work orders to powerlooms in Palladam, Somanur and Avinashi to produce grey cloths, as per the needs and then sell it off to North Indian buyers.
The Climb from 100 to 5 lakh Workers
Way back in 1990s, the powerloom sector started with just meagre units, may be 100 of them. Now, it is a vast empire with a whooping 33,000 units, 2.5 lakh powerlooms and 5 lakh workers, who either directly or indirectly are dependent on the sector. And, notably Tamil Nadu has around 10 lakh workers under this sector.
Reports say, Coimbatore and Tirupur districts alone contribute to 50% of the work force in Tamil Nadu. And, 95% of the units are job working units supplying grey cloth to master weavers/textile mills in Coimbatore.
How are wages fixed?
Unlike other sectors were wages are decided by employers or unions, the wages for job workers in powerloom sector is decided by an association comprising of representatives from employer, labourers and district administration.
Since 1992, every 3 to 4 years a meeting has been held to decide on the wage revisions. Though the wage revision system sounds complicated, the labourers were 'OK' with it.
Who infringed the wage agreement?
"While all was well until 2014, the decision derived at revision meetings on wages were flouted by the powerloom owners", allege the workers.
The wages agreement between the master weaver/textile mills and the powerloom workers association agreed for a wage revision of 30% for Palladam and 27% for Somanur (which is usually the trend depending on the quality of grey cloth weaved).
The master weavers/ textile mills which were paying the powerlooms as per the agreement, since 1992, went back on their word.
"The revised fee was paid for first six months and then the powerlooms infringed the agreement and dared to pay only the pre-agreement fees. The agreements were disdained and the negotiations turned futile", allege the powerloom workers in grief.
The Saga of Suicides
In 2014, negotiations were held but turned abortive. From then on, suicide news of powerloom workers has become a regular phenomenon.
"If the wages dispute in the powerloom sector is not resolved amicably, the enduring tale of suicide attempts will take worsen and end up in 5 lakh people losing their livelihood", warned R.Velusamy, President, Tirupur powerloom job workers association.
Many Sampath's to follow..
He also revoked the recent suicide of Sampath, a powerloom owner at Thekkalur near Avinashi, which took place a few months ago.
Unable to repay bank loans on time and distressed by mounting interest rates, Sampath took the extreme step. Like Sampath, both the power loom workers and owners are losing hope that powerloom will ever gain back power.
The 'Powerless' Powerloom Pector
According to Velusamy, "The present situation is terrorizing. With the petty earnings, the labourers are unsure if they should feed their families or repay bank loans? We are powerless. The reeling industry embeds suicidal thoughts among many.
"We are tired of submitting petitions to the district collector and the ministers. Shockingly, none of the officials have paid heed to such a pivotal industry which has employed 5 lakh people, predominantly from rural areas", Velusamy noted.
"Adding to our agony, the demonetisation decision worsened everything", he added.
Government's Silence is Shameful
"Already the damage has been done. Either an amicable solution should be derived or our loans should be written-off. Any delay in this will only augument more pain and provoke suicidal attempts", forewarned.
"There is no reason why the government remains tight-lipped and lifeless to initiate a meeting or address the present issues like waiver of loans. It's shameful than shocking", he avowed.
After all the hues and cries, at last a meeting was held on May 5, 2018. During which, a group of textile mills concurred to revise the wages but haven't implemented the same till date.
Hear our Story too - Spinning Mills Association
Like always a coin has two sides, the allegations by the 'open-end spinning mills association' (OSMA) adds more spice to the story.
"Nearly 40% of powerlooms in the state are operating in the Palladam and Somanur belt. In the past five years, not a single powerloom has emerged. Nil development is nothing but a sign of regress", says M.Jayabal, President Open end spinning mills association.
The long-pending plea from the powerloom side to create a cooperative society for powerloom goods and help in marketing the products, is unheard by the government.
"The government should foster special zones and bring all powerloom activities under one roof. But, sadly there is no ray of hope". As far as this problem is concerned we need a quick solution so that the weavers and the master weavers will not get affected further said the OSMA President.
The OSMA President also clarified that the textile hub in Coimbatore and Tirupur was created by hard working entrepreneurs of this zone and government's role in it's inception or progress is sparse.
There are even allegations that raids are conducted at textile mills who fail to abide by prescribed wage revision.
Commenting on the allegations and demands putforth by the powerloom industry, Tirupur District Collector K.S.Palanisamy shocks us by saying "Presently, 90% of the textile units are following the revised wage rates only."
But it isn't the truth; the reality is harsh!. His reply is more of a shocker than a soother to the powerloom workers whose sustenance is at stake.
In this stormy situation, MP Sathyabama's letter to Piyush Goyal, Minister of finance enunciating the hardships of this dying sector is the latest development which has kindled a small ray of hope among the distressed 5 lakh labourers and their families.
Presently, OSMA is trying to mediate talks between the two sides to reach a harmonious solution and add power to the powerless powerloom sector.