These country vegetables that were in frequent use in the South Indian kitchens of yesteryear are very hard to find these days as they are not profitable to cultivate.
It’s been 4 years since I got acquainted with the cheerful Rajathi on Vysial street. I am yet to find another source for the unique vegetables that occupy pride of place in her bamboo basket. They are the clove beans and winged beans. These country vegetables that were in frequent use in the South Indian kitchens of yesteryear are very hard to find these days as they are not profitable to cultivate.
The clove beans are known by different names in various parts of Tamil Nadu. Some call it mookuthi avarai because of the nose pin like shape while others insist on calling it kaambhu kathirikkai because of it’s obvious resemblance to the brinjal, albeit in miniature form. However unlike the brinjal, the bulbous or fruit portion is discarded and considered inedible. It is the stalk that is cooked and eaten and this is what sets these clove beans apart in looks, taste and character. I remember how strange it felt to use the kaambhu for cooking rather than the top portion, hard to believe that it would taste good until we actually tried it out!
Rajathi refers to the winged bean as sadhuram avarakkai, which is understandable given the square winged edges that change the look of this vegetable when compared to the regular broad bean. Another English name for it is the asparagus pea. She gets a regular stock of these daily and must sell them by the end of the day as they are highly perishable. They do not last for a day longer in uncooked form, even if stored in the refrigerator. Believe me, I have tried!
Now, a little bit about our cheerful roadside vendor. She has retailed from the same spot on Vysial street, on the steps, next to the Axis bank for over a decade now. This trade was passed on from her mother who like her made a living bringing traditional, seasonal farm fresh vegetables for sale inside the city. It was thanks to my friend Divya, that we added these almost forgotten vegetables to our diet. Despite the demand to stock more familiar produce, Rajathi only sticks to a few specific vegetables which she sources from farms known to her. If you stop to chat with her a little longer she will even share one or two tips on how to cook these veggies. She works from sun up to sun down, 7 days a week and has managed to educate both her sons on her single income. This enterprising lady deserves not only our respect but a great deal of support for all her hard work.
She hadn’t seen me in a long time but neither had she forgotten my name nor those of my family. Talk about personalised customer service! Rather traditional in her ways, she relies only on the paddi measure. No weighing scales of any sort have crept into her work environment.
The kaambhu kathirikkai (as we like to call it) is delicious in a puli kozhambhu or in a poriyal with potato. It cooks quickly and softens to a tender buttery consistency. Despite everyone's initial reservations of eating a ‘vegetable stalk’, having tasted it,there’s no turning back!
The winged bean is tasty in a simple pickling of salt, chilli powder and lemon. It’s also delicious in curries which contain coconut milk and pairs very well with Thai flavours. These ingredients are available only until the end of this month, so you’d best hurry. The experience of buying from Rajathi is itself worth making a trip down Vysial street.
Rajathi can be contacted in her mobile +917708460537
INFO ON CLEANING
Wash and dry well before cooking. Twist the bud like portion from the stalk of the clove bean and pull to remove completely. Trim the edges of the winged bean before cooking.