The A-to-Z of winter houseplants
A is for avocado: Want more houseplants? Great. Post-Christmas funds limited? Understandable. So why not grow your own indoor tree from an avocado stone? Scrub the stone clean, wrap in damp kitchen paper, put in a plastic bag and leave somewhere dark and warm. Within a few weeks, it will sprout and can be potted up.
B is for begonias: Forget the gaudy denizens of pub hanging baskets: instead, embrace the indoor begonias prized for their foliage. My favourites are angel wing (Begonia maculata ‘Wightii’), dark-leaved ‘Black Fang’ and the palmlike B. luxurians.
C is for cuttings: It’s easy to make more houseplants. Many will root even if you just stick a stem in a glass of water for a few weeks. And you can make more of certain succulents (including echeverias, haworthias and crassulas) by carefully removing a leaf from the stem, leaving it to callus over for a week or two, then pressing into gritty compost. Soon, a rooted baby plant will grow from the end, while the leaf gradually shrivels away.
D is for dormancy: Many houseplants, cacti and succulents included, like a breather over winter, so reduce watering and stop feeding until spring.
E is for epiphtye: Tillandsias (air plants) are epiphytes, meaning they grow on trees in the wild and have few, if any, roots. So, if you fear the mess of compost, air plants may well be the answer: they don’t need a pot and need only a weekly half-hour soak in water to keep them happy.
F is for fiddle leaf fig: Still a painfully fashionable specimen plant, but not the easiest to keep happy. If you don’t have the touch, go for a Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) instead.
G is for gynura (and other furry houseplants): I love houseplants that not only look good, but feel good, too: the purple passion plant (Gynura aurantiaca) has scalloped, velvety leaves that look like offcuts of an Austen Powers suit, while the rusty leaves of my feltbush (Kalanchoe beharensis) are the perfect tactile stress reliever.
H is for hippeastrum (aka amaryllis): If you raised one of these outsize bulbs as a Christmas curiosity and fancy a repeat performance, start cutting back on watering next September and let the plants die back. Cut away the leaves, then leave somewhere cool and dark – a shed or garage will do – for about six weeks. Bring back indoors, start watering and feeding again, and it’ll soon be popping out another phallic flower bud.
I is for ivy: Surprisingly, the English ivy (Hedera helix) that runs rampant in gardens does pretty badly in most homes. Grow lookalikes that won’t shrivel and die: namely, grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia) or devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum).
J is for jewel orchid: If you’re bored with supermarket moth orchids, you just need to spread your net wider. If you value foliage over flowers, you’ll love the jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) with its smart, dark green and silver-striped foliage.
K is for kit: Yes, that copper watering can may look stunning, but I’ve found that a drinks bottle with a sports top is actually a better way of watering without splashing.
L is for light: In winter, low light levels can cause cacti and succulents to become leggy and stretched. Invest in an LED grow light to keep them happy.
M is for mealy bugs: If your succulents are covered with fluffy white lumps, it’s probably mealy bugs, a sap-sucking scale insect. Put a drop of methylated spirits on the end of a cotton bud and dab on to the insects. Repeat until they’ve all gone (although, in serious infestations, you may need to ditch the plant altogether).
N is for Norfolk Island pine tree: It’s not a true pine, but Araucaria heterophylla will fill the gap very nicely if you are missing your Christmas tree already.
O is for Oxalis triangularis: Purple shamrock is my prediction to become the must-have houseplant of 2018. Its heart-shaped leaves fit perfectly with the Pantone colour of the year, ultra violet.
P is for pebble trays: Cacti and succulents revel in dry air, but that can be problematic for other indoor plants. Misting is often recommended as a solution, but sticking pots in a tray of gravel or pebbles half-covered with water is more effective.
Q is for quarantine: If you want to avoid importing pest problems such as mealy bug (see M, above), keep any new plants in a different room from the rest of your collection for a few weeks, so you can check the arrivals for any unwanted visitors.
R is for rosary vine (Ceropegia woodii): This trailing plant with heart-shaped, silvery leaves has a clever trick up its sleeve: the bead-like aerial tubers that grow along the stems can be snipped off to make new plants.
S is for succulent: Got a succulent for Christmas? Don’t kill it with kindness. Right now, it’s sleeping (see D is for dormant), so put it somewhere cool but sunny, and water sparingly until spring arrives.
T is for terrariums: If you have tried and failed with succulents, don’t label yourself as someone who “can’t do houseplants”; you’re probably just growing the wrong plants for your space. Shady spots are perfect for closed terrariums planted with ferns and moss. Be inspired by Tovah Martin’s book The New Terrarium.
U is for umbrella grass (Cyperus involucratus): If you are the overwatering type, this bog-dwelling plant is the one for you.
V is for variegation: Leaves with swirls, stripes and splashes of colour look great on Instagram, which may explain their current popularity: try nerve plant (fittonia), calatheas and prayer plants (marantas).
W is for watering: The biggest killer of houseplants is overwatering. If in doubt, step away from the watering can. Use a wooden skewer stuck deep into the compost as a moisture indicator. Pull it out before watering, and go ahead only if the wood is dry.
X is for ex-plant: Tempting as it may be to try to nurse a leafless stick that was once a plant back to life, don’t. Limited space means you need to be brutal, so consign it to the green waste bin and start again.
Y is for yellow: When your plant’s leaves turn yellow, it’s usually because you’re not watering right: too much or too little.
Z is for Zamioculcas zamiifolia: If you can’t keep anything green alive, this architectural foliage plant is the most forgiving of all.
B is for begonias: Forget the gaudy denizens of pub hanging baskets: instead, embrace the indoor begonias prized for their foliage. My favourites are angel wing (Begonia maculata ‘Wightii’), dark-leaved ‘Black Fang’ and the palmlike B. luxurians.
C is for cuttings: It’s easy to make more houseplants. Many will root even if you just stick a stem in a glass of water for a few weeks. And you can make more of certain succulents (including echeverias, haworthias and crassulas) by carefully removing a leaf from the stem, leaving it to callus over for a week or two, then pressing into gritty compost. Soon, a rooted baby plant will grow from the end, while the leaf gradually shrivels away.
D is for dormancy: Many houseplants, cacti and succulents included, like a breather over winter, so reduce watering and stop feeding until spring.
E is for epiphtye: Tillandsias (air plants) are epiphytes, meaning they grow on trees in the wild and have few, if any, roots. So, if you fear the mess of compost, air plants may well be the answer: they don’t need a pot and need only a weekly half-hour soak in water to keep them happy.
F is for fiddle leaf fig: Still a painfully fashionable specimen plant, but not the easiest to keep happy. If you don’t have the touch, go for a Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) instead.
G is for gynura (and other furry houseplants): I love houseplants that not only look good, but feel good, too: the purple passion plant (Gynura aurantiaca) has scalloped, velvety leaves that look like offcuts of an Austen Powers suit, while the rusty leaves of my feltbush (Kalanchoe beharensis) are the perfect tactile stress reliever.
H is for hippeastrum (aka amaryllis): If you raised one of these outsize bulbs as a Christmas curiosity and fancy a repeat performance, start cutting back on watering next September and let the plants die back. Cut away the leaves, then leave somewhere cool and dark – a shed or garage will do – for about six weeks. Bring back indoors, start watering and feeding again, and it’ll soon be popping out another phallic flower bud.
I is for ivy: Surprisingly, the English ivy (Hedera helix) that runs rampant in gardens does pretty badly in most homes. Grow lookalikes that won’t shrivel and die: namely, grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia) or devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum).
J is for jewel orchid: If you’re bored with supermarket moth orchids, you just need to spread your net wider. If you value foliage over flowers, you’ll love the jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) with its smart, dark green and silver-striped foliage.
K is for kit: Yes, that copper watering can may look stunning, but I’ve found that a drinks bottle with a sports top is actually a better way of watering without splashing.
L is for light: In winter, low light levels can cause cacti and succulents to become leggy and stretched. Invest in an LED grow light to keep them happy.
M is for mealy bugs: If your succulents are covered with fluffy white lumps, it’s probably mealy bugs, a sap-sucking scale insect. Put a drop of methylated spirits on the end of a cotton bud and dab on to the insects. Repeat until they’ve all gone (although, in serious infestations, you may need to ditch the plant altogether).
N is for Norfolk Island pine tree: It’s not a true pine, but Araucaria heterophylla will fill the gap very nicely if you are missing your Christmas tree already.
O is for Oxalis triangularis: Purple shamrock is my prediction to become the must-have houseplant of 2018. Its heart-shaped leaves fit perfectly with the Pantone colour of the year, ultra violet.
P is for pebble trays: Cacti and succulents revel in dry air, but that can be problematic for other indoor plants. Misting is often recommended as a solution, but sticking pots in a tray of gravel or pebbles half-covered with water is more effective.
Q is for quarantine: If you want to avoid importing pest problems such as mealy bug (see M, above), keep any new plants in a different room from the rest of your collection for a few weeks, so you can check the arrivals for any unwanted visitors.
R is for rosary vine (Ceropegia woodii): This trailing plant with heart-shaped, silvery leaves has a clever trick up its sleeve: the bead-like aerial tubers that grow along the stems can be snipped off to make new plants.
S is for succulent: Got a succulent for Christmas? Don’t kill it with kindness. Right now, it’s sleeping (see D is for dormant), so put it somewhere cool but sunny, and water sparingly until spring arrives.
T is for terrariums: If you have tried and failed with succulents, don’t label yourself as someone who “can’t do houseplants”; you’re probably just growing the wrong plants for your space. Shady spots are perfect for closed terrariums planted with ferns and moss. Be inspired by Tovah Martin’s book The New Terrarium.
U is for umbrella grass (Cyperus involucratus): If you are the overwatering type, this bog-dwelling plant is the one for you.
V is for variegation: Leaves with swirls, stripes and splashes of colour look great on Instagram, which may explain their current popularity: try nerve plant (fittonia), calatheas and prayer plants (marantas).
W is for watering: The biggest killer of houseplants is overwatering. If in doubt, step away from the watering can. Use a wooden skewer stuck deep into the compost as a moisture indicator. Pull it out before watering, and go ahead only if the wood is dry.
X is for ex-plant: Tempting as it may be to try to nurse a leafless stick that was once a plant back to life, don’t. Limited space means you need to be brutal, so consign it to the green waste bin and start again.
Y is for yellow: When your plant’s leaves turn yellow, it’s usually because you’re not watering right: too much or too little.
Z is for Zamioculcas zamiifolia: If you can’t keep anything green alive, this architectural foliage plant is the most forgiving of all.