The banana effect in Onam sadya

We are now in the midst of Onam celebrations that will conclude on Thiruvonam, which is the 10th day of Chingam or the first month in the Malayalam calendar. That day is a day of feasting in most Malayali homes in India and abroad.

One fruit has a ubiquitous presence in the Onam sadya. The banana is cooked and served both in its raw form and ripe state. A whole ripe banana is served during the sadya lunch. Some traditionalists recommend starting the sadya with Pappadam Pazham. The banana is peeled and mashed gently. A light drizzle of ghee followed by a sprinkling of crushed pappadam and the Pappadam pazham is ready.

Upperi, the savoury banana chips, is one of the most popular snacks in Kerala and is a must-have on the sadya spread. Thins slices of nendran banana are fried in hot coconut oil and seasoned with salt. In the Sarkara Upperi, wedges of nendran banana are fried in coconut oil until crisp and coated in jaggery syrup. The hint of dry ginger adds to the variety of the multi-course meal.

Kootukari is another tasty dish made with green plantains. A heady concoction of caramelised coconut with black pepper along with the cooked plantains and kadala (brown chick peas) makes for a lip-smacking dish.

Another is the kaalan often made with either green plantains or yam or both. It is a very sour yoghurt-based dish, which can be stored for a few days. Of course one cannot avoid the avial. No matter what other vegetables are used, the avial is incomplete without green plantains.

Most festive lunches cannot do without a pachadi is and the Onam sadya is no different. Except that here the dish is made with ripe bananas.

Beyond these savoury dishes, there is a plethora of sweets that use the fruit. The Banana Halwa with spices like cardamom and nutmeg makes for a perfect festive sweet. Pazham Nurukku is served in Central Kerala during Onam. Sections of the Nendran banana are first steamed and then roasted in ghee. It is finally coated with jaggery syrup.

Seasonal fruits, vegetables, cereals and pulses native to the state are the main ingredients in a typical sadya making it a true representation of local bounty.

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