Koothankulam bird sanctuary is located some 40 km from Tirunelveli town. Koothankulam Sanctuary is protected area declared as a sanctuary in 1994. It adjoins the tiny village of Koonthankulam in Nanguneri Taluk of Tirunelveli district, Tamil Nadu, India. It is composed of Koonthankulam and Kadankulam irrigation tanks, conveniently linked by tar road. This is the largest reserve for breeding water birds in South India. We went there as the motley gang of about 15 people. We were of all ages ranging from 13 years to 65. We were united perhaps in our mutual interest in Bird watching. We were all members of Coimbatore nature Society and we go for bird watching at different places in and around Coimbatore every Sunday without fail. Armed with Binoculars and cameras fitted with telephoto lenses, we set out in our quest for birds. Koothankulam has been on our wishlist for most of us. Koothankulam is one of those places whose reputation preceded it. This unique sanctuary is actively protected and managed by the Koonthankulam village community. The local people take a keen interest in protecting this sanctuary and they live together in total symbiotic harmony.
While preparing for the trip, we looked up the place on Forest department’s website and we saw that it listed about 43 species of birds as being regularly sighted there. We at once knew that this was wrong as we normally encountered close to 50 species or more in water bodies around Coimbatore and we definitely could expect more, not less in koothankulam. Most of us have read about the place and its famed patron guide, Balpandi. Mr. Bal Pandi is a name synonymous with this Sanctuary.
Balpandi, a man aged closed to sixty, is the caretaker of the Koonthankulam bird sanctuary. He has been hand rearing fallen chicks and has released many hundreds of birds back into the wild over the years . Bal Pandian got interested in water birds as a youngster going fishing with his father. He grew up in an atmosphere in which villagers were culturally protective about nesting and wintering waterbirds, believing they are the harbingers of good rain, and benefiting from the nutrient-rich guano. Taking this tradition to passionate heights, he and his wife Vallithai Pandian dedicated their life to avian conservation. This involved not only protecting birds against poaching, but also taking care of chicks that would periodically fall from nests because of storms or high winds.
The way to Koonthankulam from Tirunelveli was full of excitement for us. The land on either of the road was a grassy land with scrubs here and there except the places where the cultivation of Paddy is in full swing. The land is also dotted with small water bodies formed by the recent good rainfall. It was clear that this is the land of water birds, raptors, pipits and larks. The first to treat us were a pair of Red-collared Dove flying across us (this is a lifer for most of us). It then went up with sightings of Black Kite, Brahminy Kites, Egrets and Drongos. The usual ones, so to say. Ibises in good numbers were there too.
As we finally made it to the small village, we were greeted by the first sight of Painted Storks making preparation for the nests. Some of the nests were so low that you could reach it by hand. We would have never imagined such a scene in our locality. The birds feel so at home and the village community go out of their way to make them feel so. We were told that the Villagers abstain from bursting crackers during Diwali for the benefit of the birds. All the trees in the village were occupied by painted storks and one could easily watch them from close quarters. Neither they look disturbed nor does anyone in the village disturb them. They are at ease. Almost each house has a tree or two and they happily are on the job.
Koonthankulam Tank
The distance to the sanctuary or the Tank from the village is very short and one could easily cover up by a quick walk. The tank, at the time of our visit, was full of water. We were told that all the neighbouring tanks were full after a period of eight years. The tank is also dotted with small (man-made) islands which are ideal for the water birds to roost and nest. The tank bunds though well-built are not walkable except for a few tens of metres on either side. The main entrance of the tank has a watch tower and a few benches to sit and watch the birds. The entire team was impressed with the first sighting of the tank.
We could immediately see huge nesting exercise taken by the Painted Stork community as they are there everywhere and a few of them making sorties with the nest materials. Spot-billed Pelicans made their first appearance. We could easily recognise the not-so-pleasant- noise of Black-winged Stilts.
A glance into the nearby island showed the presence of Ducks - the Comb Ducks, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Northern Pintails, Garganey and Northern Shoveler - probably not exceeding 10 or 20 in numbers.
In Search of Flamingos & Bar-headed Geese
Mr. Bal Pandi, our guide for the day, insisted that we see the Flamingos and Bar-headed Goose sighted elsewhere first before we have a detailed look at the tank. So, we were off to a faraway place from Koonthankulam. It was a combination of well-laid metal road and mud road on our way. A short while from our start we saw more than 50 cattle egrets lined up as if they are doing a human watching (like we do the Bird Watching as someone in the group quipped).
Just before this, we saw a few Ibises – Glossy Ibis and Red-naped Ibis- in a small water body. A couple of young Red-naped Ibises were urging the mother to feed. I was surprised to see the size of Juvenile for their dependency on the parents. They are quite big to be really dependent. It was the first time most of us had a very close look at the Red-naped Ibis too. The bird activity from then until we reached the place- Vijaya narayanam- which is about 15 Km from Koonthankulam- was not much. The land is full of dry grasses but our search for Indian Courser was in vain.
Vijaya Narayanam
It is the place where a bulk of our birding was done for the day. It is a huge water body again much bigger than the Koonthankulam tank. The surrounding areas, unfortunately, were getting converted into Real Estates which we are sure would put enormous pressure on this water body and eventually the birds will go away from here. We were told that because of a presence of humans around the Real Estate sites, the flamingos and Bar-headed geese were seen deep inside the water bodies which are otherwise seen in close quarters. We were able to have a first look at the Greater flamingos which are probably in a few hundred only. All our attempts to get close to the birds were futile. We were also able to see the regular waders like Sandpipers, Little Ringed Plovers, Kentish Plovers etc. Ibises and Egrets were in good numbers too. It was a time we need to move on to the far eastern side to have a look at the Bar-headed Geese. They were in good numbers too resting near the shore lines. As usual, after sensing our movement towards them, they all one by one went into the water beyond the reach of cameras.
Apart from the Flamingos and the Bar Headed Geese, there were many regulars of various kinds which were making their presence there. An interesting find for some of us is sighting Eurasian Thick Knee/ Indian Thick Knee which is a lifer to some of us. Though we could not get a clear a shot of the same, a record shot was made. Mr. Bal Pandi mentioned that they are breeding in these wet lands too.
Other sightings included here are Yellow-wattled and Red-wattled Lapwings, Black and Brahminy Kites, Cattle Egrets in huge numbers, a huge flock of Yellow Wagtails (probably greater than 200 numbers), Golden Flameback Woodpeckers, Kingfishers, Indian Rollers, Rosy Starlings, Bay-backed Shrikes, Indian Robin, Pied Bushchat, etc.
It was around noon and time to return. We were able to observe a pair of Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark and they obliged for a few portraits. Common Kestrel female, a few Shikras and a Booted Eagle are what we could add to our kitty. The detour and search for Indian Courser were still futile. It was mentioned that the tall grasses are reasons for not sighting them readily though they are still there.
The return to the Koonthankulam tank was a huge disappointment to say. We have not had a detailed watch of the Ducks and were hoping to see some good numbers in the After Noon. All the ducks were retreated elsewhere to cooler places, we assumed. We have to settle for a few portraits of Indian Roller, Spotted Owlets, Indian Golden Orioles and Cattle Egrets in breeding plumage. Some of us where making umpteenth attempt to get a good photograph one of the many Whiskered Terns that were flying.
We were, however, able to spot a few ducks after a while. A Spot-billed duck was trailed by 15 of its chicks. We rushed to take a glimpse of it and were happy to see. Northern Pintails in good numbers have come back to the nearby islands finally. The team was tired by 4:30 PM in the evening and left the sanctuary with good memories.